Between the districts is Yemen’s largest city, Sana’a. It is controlled by Houthi rebels who have been at war with the Saudi-backed Yemeni government since 2015. Al-Jawfi, 32, sat outside the Old City of Sana’a with a sack of cooked locusts, which are fried in oil and often eaten with rice or bread. He bartered with potential customers, asking 150 Yemeni rial per scoop, about 60 cents.
Yemen’s civil war has worsened a famine that started in 2016, with 20 million Yemenis (70% of the population) facing food insecurity and 10 million “one step away from famine,” according to the U.N. Saudi Arabian-led air strikes have killed civilians and targeted water sources, while blockades have restricted and slowed humanitarian aid.
While crop-destroying swarms of locusts present an obvious threat in such conditions, they also act as a bumper crop. Residents in Sana’a took to their roofs with nets to collect the flying insects, which many Yemenis believe have health benefits for certain conditions, like diabetes.
“It is a good food because it eats from all kinds of crops,” said Ahmed Rabia, a scholar of Islam in Sana’a. He was standing with Saleh al-Muqri, another elder scholar, inside the city’s ancient Grand Mosque. Islamic scriptures date the mosque to the time of the Prophet Muhammad.
The men discussed the locusts’ religious meaning, oscillating between two interpretations: punishment and blessing.
“Locusts were sent by Allah as a warning for all people wherever they were,” Rabia said. “When locusts arrive, people should fear Allah and return to him through repentance.”
The insect is mentioned twice in the Quran. One is as a punishment for the Israelites, Rabia said. He cited the scripture: “So we sent upon them the flood and locusts and lice and frogs and blood as distinct signs, but they were arrogant and were a criminal people.”
The second reference uses them as a metaphor for life after death: “Their eyes humbled, they will emerge from the graves as if they were locusts spreading.”
To al-Jawfi, it could go either way. He quoted another verse: “Locusts are like the rain, where God is ‘afflicting therewith whom He pleases and turning it away from whom He pleases,'” he said.
Another vendor in the market near the Old City’s main gate was selling locusts beside his other goods. Abdul-Majeed Hamid said the insects are clearly a blessing, eaten by many to treat hypertension and diabetes.
Yet another man, Abdullah Al Sayaghi, said he has diabetes and doesn’t believe locusts are a remedy. “I’ve eaten a tumbler and nothing changed,” he said.